Always Florence
Especially in Winter
I love how the color palette changes in winter, from bright primary to subtle fresco. What makes Florence incredibly special? We already know—the city’s beauty and unparalleled artistic inheritance. For me, what raises it to sublime is the Arno. The reflections of the buildings in the water, the historic bridges, the allure of walking along its banks, the sky in the water, the occasional painterly oarsman rhythmically rowing his boat, the Arno at all times of the day playing with light—and best at dawn, before anyone is out, to lean on the cold stones with a cappuccino and a bun still warm from a bar that just opened.
Without the crowds, Florence’s streets are seductive—I want to walk, sans phone guiding me toward an address. Just wander in the crisp air, pop into paper shops, bookstores, and peer inside artisan workshops. How different Santa Croce looks—its magnificent piazza empty, and the statue of Dante glaring out at history. Around the corner, even the graffiti pays homage to the poet. Ideal to stop at the Finisterrae, with its ringside seats for contemplating the church facade, plus wonderful pastries, coffees, and hot chocolate.
On the platter, the fried pastries are called struffoli. Near carnival, or really just after epiphany, you start seeing them. Something like round doughnuts, but lighter, they’re irresistible. You try to stop at two… (Here’s a link to Lidia Bastianich’s Recipe) Most recipes call for drizzling them with honey but I don’t see that in Tuscany.
Near Piazza Santa Croce, we found Aqua Flor, which is now my favorite shop in Florence. Friends Mark and Vincenzo had given me a gift from here and were shocked that I didn’t know about it. Now I do!
Also in the zone, another favorite: Lisa Corti, near the revitalized Sant’Ambrogio food market. I knew the shop in Rome but just found out about the Florence branch. Love their table runners! Bright home accessories, and really fun dresses.
Walking in Oltrarno with my family, we came upon the Museo La Specola, which I had not visited in years. It’s an ethnographic museum, with rocks and miles of taxidermy, where children can see every animal imaginable behind glass. But the other amazing attraction is the 17th century human models in wax, once used to instruct medical students, and the beautiful red-toned drawings of the body parts. Wax was a big educational tool, apparently. It doesn’t sound astonishing, but the museum’s intricate and moving bodies, and also the collection of flora, will be something you’ve never seen before. This is nothing like wax museums of Elvis and Princess Di!
We had lunch outside (heat lamps) one day, at the famous Caffè Paszkowski, an old friend right on the Piazza della Repubblica, and a very fun dinner at Osteria del Giglio. Another night, we went to another old favorite, Parione. I like the location of our hotel, Casa G. It’s right at the end of Via Tornabuoni near the splendid china showroom Ginori 1735, an aesthetic experience in itself.
Earlier in the trip, we spent a night at Gallery Hotel Art, near the Ponte Vecchio, a hotel we’ve enjoyed before. The lobby is filled with art books and exhibits of art are always changing. Two super bars, and pleasant rooms.
The pleasures of off-season travel: hotel rates are up to half what they are in tourist season. A slowed pace. More focus with less distraction. Winter has its issues. We experienced flight cancellations back to stormy NC, rain when you didn’t want there to be rain. Cold, but it was bracing. You just need to dress for it, and if you didn’t bring the right boots and jackets, well, flex those credit cards: you’re in Florence! The inconveniences of weather are easily compensated by the advantages of getting back a sense of discovery.
Big thanks to those who are paid subscribers. All welcome, of course, but just to say—it’s gratifying to be given that vote of confidence! Lots of travel coming up. Right now I’m posting from the air, a first. Where have I been? Waco, TX. More later….
It's a long time since I visited Florence, in the heat of early summer and crowds. But it was memorable. Beautiful pictures here of enticing shops and hotels. 😍
I love to armchair travel with you! Thanks for posting.