New Places in Winter: Part I – Bangkok

Bangkok

Although Bangkok is one of those cities like Cairo, like Mumbai, that doesn’t inspire love on a brief visit, it’s still a heady stopover. On our January trip to Asia, Ashley had to leave us midway through. Work calling! Two weeks was all she could manage. The four of us left Cambodia together and flew to Bangkok for her flight, landing into the mayhem of a chaotic city. We only squeezed in three days there before Ed, Will, and I moved on to Malaysia, then China. Maddening traffic is a downer and only when we reached a destination and could walk the little streets did we find connection—boisterous street art, household shrines called spirit houses, and a neighborhood of car and scooter repair shops interspersed with cool coffee-roaster cafes and tiny shops.

Our first night, we loved the restaurant Gaa. Memorable, creative Indian food in a traditional Thai house. I had the vegetarian menu.

What thoroughly enchants: The Siam Hotel, one of the most distinctive places I’ve stayed in my life, and the opposite of anonymous corporate luxury. Right on the Chao Phraya river, the romantic hotel is so extraordinary that the sights of Bangkok became less alluring than just staying put. The art and collections of the owner make the library, public rooms and galleries seem like you’re visiting an eccentric friend with exalted taste and major curating talents. Our few photos here hardly show the extent of beauty this property offers. Memorable, sitting by the river with sundown drinks, watching the colorful long boats plying the waters.

Spa salon and a bit of the spacious bedroom

The spa is assuredly the most serene spot in Bangkok. Even a manicure—reclining, watery music playing, a gentle touch—relaxes you into a near coma!

Nick, the cordial manager at The Siam, seemed to be everywhere at once. That’s probably why everything ran so smoothly. When we admired his shirts, he sent us to Cotton House, a tiny shop with an exquisite fabric selection and a professional team who performed miracles. Ed went there for fine cotton shirts ($75) but as he was being measured, I ordered a couple in bright colors. Now they have measurements, and they ship. I watched as they prepared an order for an American in Florida—seventy five shirts, all monogrammed!

We visited several temples with wild and frenzied sculptures and the serene Buddhas, taking off our shoes and joining the throngs who left offerings of flowers and plastic bottles of water and bananas and notes to the deities. I loved the delicate tile and painted patterns on the temple walls, so at odds with the outrageous garden figures.