Idyllic Winter Retreat

In the Dolomites

In the chairlift going up a thousand feet or so, my fingers, despite lined gloves, begin to paralyze. The iron bar holding me in is so cold it seems to burn. I tuck my hands under my scarf and concentrate on taking great deep breaths. It’s exhilarating—is this what’s meant by “mountain high?” The pure frigid air, way in, way out, slowly. In the distance, the Dolomites’s crags and peaks form a mystical jagged horizon. Patches of conifers are such a dark, black-green that they need another name for their color. We (family trip) leap out of the chairs as they slow for us to exit.

At the top, there’s more snow than at 1500 meters where we’re staying. It has been a long time since I have been in snowy woods in deep winter. I trail behind, just wanting to “forest bathe,” as the Japanese tradition has it. Slow going, observing small things of beauty in nature, letting my shoulders relax, and again taking the deep breaths. There must be some brain chemical change as I slog along: I feel euphoric.

I became mesmerized by the grasses, rocks, views, shapes of plants

Such quiet. I keep stopping to see the way the combed grasses lie. They began to look like hair, as the path of rain water flattened them on hillsides. Glorious to be here, away from the noisy world.

Going back down in the chairlift seems even more wondrous—the faraway views of the Dolomites, the invigorating air, yes, but the silence and sensation of floating. I could almost imagine that if I were to die right there, suspended in quiet, that it’s would be an easy letting go. I didn’t tell my family this, as they might be alarmed, but it was a joyful feeling.

The Blissful Hotel

We’re staying for three nights at Vigilius Mountain Resort near Merano in the Alto Adige, one of my very favorite regions of Italy. Serenity is the hotel philosophy. Designed by architect Matteo Thun, the place blends into nature. From the outside it looks as if it’s built from old hay racks or fence wood. The interior’s spare and natural elegance gives you a profound sense of calm. For marvelous dining midday, there’s Stube Ida, a casual restaurant with a Süd Tyrol menu and panoramic terrace. The fabulous Ristorante 1500 (their altitude in meters) upstairs restaurant serves a fabulous four-course dinner, with many choices. A lavish breakfast and dinner are included in the room fee. Along the higher hiking trails you come upon a few casual restaurants with super views and hearty food for reviving lunch stops. There’s a spa, huge stone-bottomed pool, and a warm indoor pool we love that also connects to the outside frigid air.

In the indoor times, you can take a yoga or stretching class, steam bath or sauna, relax on chaise longues in the “silent room” and read or think large thoughts! Will (grandson) and his girlfriend really enjoy a water-tasting class, which ended in some strong pours from Hungary. We’re all now conscious of the mineral content of our waters. Movies are shown in the library after dinner, though often in dubbed German. The shelves are full of art books.

The baked clay interior wall heats the room. The large lobby, called the piazza room, has a fireplace and guests gather at seven for complimentary drinks and sometimes live music.

Vigilius is a hiking and snowshoeing paradise. (I’ve been there also in spring when the upland fields are covered in wildflowers.) Skiing, there’s some, but with the warming climate, best to look for higher elevations. To reach Vigilius, you take a funivia, a cable car up. There are no cars at the resort. I can imagine a solitary week there, concentrating on a writing project and taking deep breaths.

Sunrise

Getting there: We took the fast Frecciarossa train from Milano to Bolzano, then an Uber to the cable car at Lana. Others in the family flew into Innsbruck, Austria, trained it to Lana, and took a taxi arranged by the hotel to the cable car.

Bye-bye till next time!